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bagging 88 yota front

  
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bagging 88 yota front

 
stubby5 stubby5
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/03/09
07:17 PM

looking for some ideas on bagging my 88 yota frontend.i havent seen in person any front bags that lay frame on 17s.i'm sure they're out there just havent seen them. i'm kinda new to bags i've been a juicer forever (hydraulics).I've owned a juiced 86 monte forever with coilspring frontend easy to juice or bag; torsion bars are alot harder to set-up.what do i do with the front bar to lower a-arm?any ideas or pics would be awsome. thanks.  

 
burnzya burnzya
Moderator | Posts: 940 | Joined: 10/07
Posted: 11/04/09
01:24 PM

my truck lays frame on 115/40/18 without drop spindles, but the ball joints are starting to bind right when it hits the ground.

i'm assuming the front bar to lower arm you're talking about is the strut rod. you can leave it as is, and it will be fine. the toyotas are super easy to bag, and lay out nicely, all you really need is a torsion truck kit. also to make the toy lay full frame the torsion bar/tranny x-member has to be modified or replaced, as well as needing the frame z'd roughly 1.5". it's pretty standard to use a 2500# bag up front. if you have about $6-800 to spend you can get a set of tubular, triangulated control arms. the companies that i know of are:

www.twistedminis.com

www.candospecialties.com

www.dallashotrodparts.com  

 
bagds10 bagds10
Enthusiast | Posts: 401 | Joined: 10/08
Posted: 11/04/09
04:33 PM

i know this is irrelevant, but yesterday i saw a 80s toyota extended cab with minor front end damage and it was gutted and no motor or tranny or grill or lights and he was headed towards the junkyard and i was going to ask him if he was going there and couldnt catch him. so i think i missed out  

 
laidoutcourier laidoutcourier
User | Posts: 52 | Joined: 08/08
Posted: 11/05/09
05:40 AM

one way to lay with out the balljoint binding is to flip the upper control arm and switch sides (switch the left side to the right side and visversa but flip them upside down)  

 
burnzya burnzya
Moderator | Posts: 940 | Joined: 10/07
Posted: 11/05/09
10:41 PM

you could also pie cut the upper arm a few degrees.  

 
stubby5 stubby5
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/06/09
04:19 PM

thanks for the info.i knew  about the x-member but whats the z'd frame your talking about?i've got a set of 2500# bags and brackets already all i do is remove torsion bars,notch and raise x-member,and install bags(right)?i see laidoutcourier talking about swaping upper control arms from side to side upside down what do you know bout that?i've heard of flipping b/j 's but not the whole a-arm?thanks also for the links.i've been to cando but none of the others.apriece agian man.  

 
burnzya burnzya
Moderator | Posts: 940 | Joined: 10/07
Posted: 11/06/09
09:31 PM

a frame "z" is basically cutting the frame and raising the front portion so that the engine x-member sits even with the rest of the frame. you also have to cut the front near the radiator the same amount. check out the forums at www.twistedminis.com, there is a awesome article in the tech section on how to do a frame z.

basically remove the torsions and install the bags (depending on where you put them you may need to trim some of the stock metal out of the way.

i've never personally heard of flopping the control arms, i recommend moving the balljoints to the top of the arms (i try not to call it flipping the ball joints as a bunch of people have thought that they literally flip it over)  

 
stubby5 stubby5
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/09/09
04:20 AM

never heard of z'n a frame but when i do my body drop i was gonna cut the front frame by the core support to drop it level with the rest of the body instead of remounting the brackets.i can see where some people would get flipping the b/j's a literaly flipping but i know better.lol.thanks again for info i should be posting pics of my ride soon.  

 
burnzya burnzya
Moderator | Posts: 940 | Joined: 10/07
Posted: 11/09/09
12:07 PM

if you do the bags and bodydrop at the same time, you can save the hassle of doing the front of the frame twice.

say you body drop it 2", and z it 1.5". the front of the frame would need to be moved 3.5" to line everything up correctly.

without the frame z, a toyota won't lay completely out. it will have roughly a 3/4" gap near the front of the doors.

here is the article i mentioned before.
http://www.twistedminis.com/SMF/index.php?topic=27.0  

 
stubby5 stubby5
New User | Posts: 7 | Joined: 11/09
Posted: 11/11/09
04:30 AM

thanks for the links.definitly helpful!i logged into your web site waiting for reply on access.the pics are great i ll have some up today.  

 

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