I am looing for info on doing a five lug conversion on my 1991 nissan hardbody. any help would be much appreciated.
tanx "E"  

Hey man this is probably, no wait ,yeah,IS THE BEST MOD you can do to your truck.Wheels are almost endless possibility. I have a 88 and I used hubes off a 82-84 toyota 2 wheel dr. But if I'm not mistaken the better of the bunch would be hubes&rotors off a early to mid 90's toy. They slide right on because they use the same A3 & A5 bearing. Now on mine i did have to shim the calliper with a washer but it fits perf. Also check your seal to make sure it sits on the spindle right, now thats the front! The rear is simple or not so depending on your wallet! Not to scare you from doing this ,please do but your options are,Buy a yota rear end and redrill the yoke to eccept your drive shaft, or do like i did , having already welded my cantelever system in I hade to have my friend who works at a machine shop redrill my axles and turn down the center, witch workes great! I now have a set of 17x7 ro-ja 5 spoke tuner rim wich lookes really cool. The patern is 5 on 4.5.    Hope this helps some how friend.. hrdbdy1,,,out.........  

tanx for the help man. I was thinking about replacing the rear yoke on the drive shaft with a uota yoke. I will see which is easier.  

well did the 5 lug conversion. '90 front hubs and '94 rear end. looks great.  

Will this toyota conversion fit on the front of my 89 isuzu. I want to do a 6lug to 5lug (5x4.5) on the front...How do I do it without adapters? Anybody help...  

I cant see why it wouldnt! but i found out this weekend theres more to it than just bolting this stuff up!Sorry "manic_ mechanic" but listen you may need to check this out...I was looking on nissancustoms and ran across a thread on the 5 lug conv.A fella had done this same thing to his truck a year or so back.One day cruising his spindle snaped into shooting him across a 2 lane hwy!What he found was the outer bearing(small)was only sitting halfway on the spindle.So i check mine...same thing...He also sad he took his spindles to a machinest and had them machined so the hub would sit back to allow the outer bearing to slide on further. The thing is the toyota hub is wider than the nissan hub.You can check this by measureing your nissan hub race to race,then the yota hub race to race,now youll see what i mean!I took mine to a friend at a machine shop and we figured out I needed to take the hub back on the spindle .300"! The fella on nissancustoms whent .25" but mine neede a little more.How we are doing it is pressing the spindle out of the knuckle,they press in anyway dont freakout!Press from the bearing side.You will notice the spindle has a shoulder to keep the spindle from going too far when there made,the seat in the knuckle where the spindle sits needs to be counter bored .25 or .300" wich ever yours measures.Then machine back the area on spindle(largest dia,)that is pressed in the knuckle the same distance,this will allow your inner(large)bearing to sit against the knuckle like normal. Now press it together,and your safe!!!!Sorry  about the lack of info earlier I thought we were good to go, but better safe than sorry!.....hrdbdy1...out..  

well I am e,barking on a little experiment. I have just brought home a toyota spindle assembly. When I get my truck back from the shop I will test fit the spindle. If it works you can just take the toyota spindle and hub assembly and use it. no machining required. I will let you know hopefully b4 the end of ther week end.  

well the toyota spindle does not fit the nissan ball joint.  

were the ball joints to big or too small?  I am wanting to do the same conversion and am wondering.help appreciated.  

if you guys need more info you can post in the "ask max" forum and he might have the answers you're looking for  

I need some serious help.  I took the spindles to the machine shop and the machinest showed me there was a spacer on the spindle.  I removed it and am trying to figure out what needs to be done with it.  On nissancustom.com the dude from the fabshack says to machine the spindle .250 on the spidle width, then later says that that is makes the spindle 1/4 inch longer.  Are you supposed to machine the spacer were the seal can slide over it and the bearing can seat on it , or are you supposed to machine it length wise and make it shorter.  if done this way the bearing will still not seat correctly the seal will make contact first and the bearing will be sandwiched between them.  I am confused ,  please help. thanx  

WHATS UP MAN IM NEW TO THE BLOG, AND I TO AM LOOKING TO DO A 5LUG CONVERSION ON MY 95NISSAN. I ALREADY HAVE THE HUBS TO PUT ON BUT AM HAVING TROUBLE GETTING THE COTTER PIN BACK IN. DO I HAVE TO TAKE OFF THE DUST PLATE? ALSO ON THE FRONT IM PLANNING ON GETTING 2IN DROP SPINDLES, WILL THEY ACCEPT THE YOTA ROTORS? NOW FOR THE BACK I ALREADY HAVE THE BAGS WELDED ON TO THE 4 LINK SO I TO WOULD ALSO HAVE TO REDRILL THE HUBS BUT I DONT KNOW WHAT THE YOKE IS THAT TOUR TALKING ABOUT? COULD YOU PLEASE HELP?  

Hey fellas, listen! PRESS THE SPINDLE OUT OF THE KNUCKLE!!!! THE KNUCKLE IS THE CAST PIECE THAT THE SPINDLE SITS IN!!!THE SPINDLE WILL COME OUT WHEN PRESSED FROM THE THREAD SIDE(where your spindle nut & cotter pin go). NOW THAT ITS OUT,THE SEAT WERE THE SPINDLE SITS IN THE KNUCKLE HAS GOT TO BE MACHINED INWARD .250 OR .300, TO ALLOW THE SPINDLE WHEN REPLACED TO STICK OUT FURTHER THROUGH THE KNUCKLE!! NOW YOUR NUT WILL GO ON ALL THE WAY(with proper tension on the bearrings) AND ALSO YOUR COTTER PIN WILL GO IN LIKE NORMAL!!BEFORE YOU PRESS THE SPINDLE IN YOU WILL HAVE TO MACHINE THE SPINDLE DOWN WERE THE INSIDE BEARRING SITS TO THE SAME DIA. AS WERE IT USED TO SIT,YOUR SEAL WILL ALSO BE IN THE NORMAL LOCATION AS WELL AS THE HUB. THE ONLY THING THAT YOU HAVE DONE IS MOVE THE SPINDLE FURTHER THROUGH THE HUB SO YOUR OUTSIDE BEARRING WILL HAVE FULL CONTACT WITH THE SPINDLE.!!!!GOOD LUCK !!!!! __/_____
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