I have an old D-50 with a crappy engine.. I was thinking about swapping the stock 4 cyclinder manual with a V8 of some kind. I was wonding if their was a engine tranny combo that would cut down the driveshaft and axle compatability issues.. Mostly just wonding if their is one setup that is going to be in sence easier than anouther..? Any comments or advice is welcome
Back in 95 I stuffed a 360 in a 1980 D-50; I had a total of $1200.00 in it that included the cost of the truck ($200.00). Once the bugs were worked out it ran 13.70. It was the funnest vehicle I’ve ever owned.Reply to this post for more tips, I might be able to scan the motor mount templates that I have. I may also have a cost run down of the whole truck if anybody’s interested.If your truck is 2wd a V8 swap is pretty easy; a 4X4 will have torsion bars up front that look like they’d get in the way. Because your truck came with a manual trans it should be equipped with a 3.9 axle ratio (I think), Automatic versions of the 79-86 D-50s were equipped with 3 speed 904 Torqueflites it’s basically a 904 but the bell housing is shaped to fit the japola 4 banger. With this in mind a 360/318 with a 904 will directly bolt to the D-50’s auto trans cross member, the D-50 auto shifter will be a direct bolt on, a D-50 auto drive shaft will slip right in and the speedo cable will hook right up. I could go on should I continue? Reply to this post.
well when i did the buick, i had about a 6 inch driveshaft difference. It cost me about 360 to have it shortened, but that was with a new carrier bearing and a balancing(its a two piece) so as far as shortening or lengthening the driveshaft, it really isnt too bad of a monetary addition. prolly only cost 240 or so without bearings and all that mess. Just an option if you want to maybe save the headache in finding a more sparsly backed engine/tranny combo. 350 parts are everywhere
Please continue, did you have to cut the firewall? I am all ears, have an 87 auto with 2.6 motor on my stand and a 360 sittin on the garage floor. Geoff in Va Beach
Hi; And yes please do continue!! 79asspin. I maybe need motor mounts for just such a swap, 4-banger to a 360!! I will watch this forum for more. Niizhmkwa. ps! good info for sure.
I didn’t have to cut the firewall but I did hammer a body seam flat in the trans tunnel area, also had to cut the lower radiator support (for pulley clearance) and added a 16” piece of 2”X2”X1/8” square tubing (forward of the cut) to tie the support back together. Here’s how I did the motor mounts. Before I jerked the four cylinder I measured the center point of the crank or harmonic in relation to the frame rails, it seems to me that the engine was off set 1” to the passenger side. Before I could drop in the 360 904 combo, I sectioned the passenger car oil pan, to clear the engine crossmember. Basically I moved the sump 3” toward the front and extended the pickup a like amount. I guess I did this because I felt that the x-member added strength to the front suspension. Other options would be to use a truck pan (rear sump) and spin it 180 degrees (now a front sump), this might work with a 318 pan but not the 360 (front and rear seal areas are a different radius). When I do it again I think I'd just cut some of the engine x-member and reinforce it with 2X2 square tubing (and use a car pan). somthing like this Now I was able to drop the motor and trans into place. My 1980 D50 was originally a 2WD with a manual transmission (3.9 axle?). I went to the junkyard and picked up a D50 automatic driveshaft and crossmember (probably 79-86 parts, not sure about 87 up stuff). This crossmember locates the transmission exactly where it needs to be, the driveshaft slips into the tranny and bolts to the rear end, these are just stock parts, no fabrication necessary. With the transmission bolted in I temporarily slipped a 3”X6”X¼” flat piece of stock (wood or steel plate) between the oil pan and the engine crossmember, now remembering my 1” off set I moved the front of the engine where it needed to be. My mounts consisted of two pieces of ¼ X3X3 square tubing, the drivers side was 7” long and the passenger side was 6” long. One end needs to be shaped to be bolted to the “dog ears” of the engine and the other end is cut at an angle and welded to the frame rails. I reinforced the frame area with a piece of 1/8X2X3 angle 6” long. Pictures will explain this better than I can, but if you’ve come this far you can easily mock up some cardboard templates. And yes these mounts are solid, I didn’t think they were to bad to live with they actually added to the exhilaration. When you consider some of the tight clearances, solid just seemed the way to go. I was able to close the stock hood on the whole thing (no scoop) and didn’t want the motor flopping around.
79asspinI'm trying to fit a 318/904 combo in to a Dodge D-50 1987, I can use all the help from you. Please E-mail me at firstname.lastname@example.org Thank you.
Is your truck 2WD, auto or manual? The D-50 I was working on in those photos was an 87 also. The yellow one that I used for my avatar was an 80. I know that 79-86 d-50’s used the 904 based transmission. I think 87 and up used a misubitchy trans of some sort and I never found out if the later style transmission crossmember would bolt to my 904 or if an early crossmember would bolt to the later truck. It is possible to fab your own crossmember but like with my 80 the factory CM placed the tail portion exactly where it has to be.
im currently working on a 85 dodge d50 318/727 swap. i was wondering what u did for the oil pan to fit possably some pics or drawing or any advice on this would be helpful thx dodgeman
Anybody looking to buy a Dodge D50? I have one in need of good home. 1983 Dodge D50 with a 360 and a 904 tranny,the motors out of a 1978 Dodge diplomat police car,all she needs is a good carb,blue exterior,gray interior,automatic on the floor,bucket seats,sliding back glass,electric fan,dual exhaust.Asking $1800. Need it gone,I've tried ebay,everything.
The oil pan is explained above I didn’t get pics of mine. It was built back in 95 when computers (and digital cameras) were made out of wood. Your 318 might go together easier with a 318 truck pan just mount it backwards so the sump is up front. You’ll have to rework your pick up tube. I’d consider swapping the 727 for a 904, the 727 is overkill and a lot larger.
I laugh a lot when I see people doing V8 swaps in these trucks, because they assume it's a "Dodge D50" and figure they should swap a small block Chrysler engine in. These trucks are made by Mitsubishi NOT by Dodge! You would be surprised how easy it is to swap a small block Chevrolet in to these trucks and have a lot more horsepower and options.
Every time I see one of these posts I have to laugh. Cookie cutter-copy cat builders always think the end all be all is a small block chevy. The only people who think chevies have more horsepower are people who only deal with chevies.A real engine builder can make power with anything. More options? Never actually looked at the mopar cataloge have you. I remember all the chevy guys pissin themselvs cuz we stuck a 413 into a 71 chevelle. THAT was funny! Motors are motors- pistons go up and down.All that counts is what goes inside. I wish more builders had imagination. Current project- 1993 dakota 5.2/auto. The motor is now a 390 cid, that a .030 overbore and a4.00 stroke crank-NO high end block as needed with a chevy and No aftermarket rods as needed with a chevy,thats 385HP and 470TQ for $2700, All factory parts. I had one 93, a drunk (in a chevy!)plowed into it. I pulled the motor/tranny,found a second truck. So when the dak is done i'll have a second motor/tranny combo to play with. I think a 390cid/A518 combo into a DODGE D-50 would be cool daily driver.
hey it doesnt matter who makes what and what engine goes in it. i know a guy that stuck a toyota 4cyl in a 69 camaro. he said it saves him gas